Kashmir..before Kashmir 2019

Srinagar 9th March 2018 – 11th March 2018

Completely on a whim we decided to go to Srinagar for the weekend. We are members of Club Mahindra, fortunately their houseboat property was available. We reached late evening and though we were prepared about the weather. The chill factor was a shocker!. An early sunset ushers in the sharp drop in temperature and that was harsh. An hour ride in a  shikara(boat), on the calm lake was welcome and of course, the pleasure was coupled by drinking warm kehwa(cinnamon tea laced with saffron and almonds).The chill was unbearable.

The gentlemen looking after us on the houseboat started the fire in a Bhukara (a crude closed hearth with a small chimney). That was a relief.
Each room had one, which was started up just after dinner and before bedtime. Asthma patients, senior citizens and infants should be very careful as these room warmers can get very hot and often make the rooms stuffy. Always enquire about the heating and food in advance. Some houseboats have tacky rooms, bad interiors and very expensive food. Please check the rooms before checking in.

Be warned – the peddler of saffron, jewellery, dry fruits, seeds and all sorts of wood carvings, are a real problem. They punctuate the entire day with conversations about their merchandise and are difficult to ward off. Very often they cheat on the price and heavy bargaining is expected. Every guide, boatman or houseboat host has a commission on every sale. Always buy from authorised showrooms that have printed prices and give you a bill.

Do visit Gulmarg, Sonmarg, Pehelgam for their scenic beauty and formidable mountains. The Himalayas are a treat beyond words, especially since they were snow covered.

Beware of the horsemen who can quote any price for any distance. Talk to your transport driver for tips on pricing.

Wear correct footwear. Snow shoes, or shoes that have non-slip soles, snow jackets are necessary for 80% of the year especially since its almost certain that you will encounter snow.
Layering your clothes and a scarf/muffler /shawl is surely sensible. A cap to cover your ears, socks, thermals and gloves are a must.

Staying at a houseboat on Dal lake means getting in and out of Shikaras or row boats. Senior citizens and children should be careful. The boatmen are the most friendly and helpful people. They transport people and luggage with amazing efficiency. They are the lifeline of transport on the lake.

So look into the options of staying overnight at Gulmarg ( for snow) Pehelgam (for scenic beauty) and Sonmarg (for serenity).

Srinagar is a Must Visit. Go prepared and enjoy the unparalleled natural beauty of the Himalayas.

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